How and when did surfing is not known for certain. Perhaps on one of the Islands was inhabited by the tribe. It so happened that the trees on the island ceased to bear fruit, the fish are gone, the animals gradually destroyed. The tribe was doomed to starvation and death. But among them there was one brave soul who went across the water to another island nearby. To do this, he straddled the tree trunk felled by the storm. According to the legend, this was the first Navigator and simultaneously surfing was born. True or not, but today we know that the Hawaiians made the first attempts to ride the wave in the Pacific ocean since the dawn of time. In Europe about skating on the boards on the waves learned for the first time after the voyages of James cook in 1779.
14For the Hawaiians, surfing was and is a ritual action. For riding on the Board were required not only considerable skill, but also a large force in those days, surfboards weighed about 70 kg.
22   For the Hawaiians, surfing was and is a ritual action. For riding on the Board were required not only considerable skill, but also a large force in those days, surfboards weighed about 70 kg.35The first surfboards were made and sturdy wood. Their length often exceeding 3.5 meters and weighs about 45 lbs. In the late 40-ies for the manufacture of surfboards began to use lighter balsa wood. The seventies of the twentieth century were important for surfing the world of Amateur sport, he moved into the professional category. Then for the manufacture of boards began to actively use modern lightweight polymers.
43The modern surfboards are made from three types of materials. Plastic boards have good strength, they are cheap and great for learning to surf. The most durable and high-speed boards are made of epoxy resin, but they are expensive and difficult to manage, they are usually chosen by professionals. The most common material for boards today is fiberglass. Boards made of fiberglass cheap, behave gently on the waves. Their disadvantage is the fragility, they often break in transit.
surfingThe surfboard long ago from just boards has evolved into a complex design. Inside the Board is filled with foam and this foam is denser and harder the longer Board will serve you. In the middle of the Board place the stiffener, which is called the stringer. Stability and control of a Board depends on its shape, but rather from the shape of the nose and stern. At the bottom of the Board place one or more fins that help to maneuver on the wave and perform various stunts. On the upper part of the Board often attach special Mat to athlete’s foot does not slip on the surface. The rest of the wax to improve the adhesion of the second leg with the Board. Quality boards are complex and sports equipment and at least 500-1000 dollars.
63To get the dose of adrenaline while surfing you need a good wave, with a height of 10 meters. Thank modern surfers are often directly proportional to wave height, they were able to ride. Today the most famous athlete is considered an American Garrett McNamara, who in 2011 managed the coast of Portugal to conquer the wave height of almost 24 meters. This result was recorded in the Guinness Book of world records, but in 2013, the American managed to conquer the wave height of over 30 meters.
surfing-02   Surfing as a conquering giant waves enters into the twenty of the most dangerous sports. The most desperate surfers can be found on the coast of Teahupoo in Tahiti. Here are raging most dangerous waves. Maybe they are not the highest in the world, but they do not forgive mistakes. Since 2000 there has already killed 5 of surfers, but that doesn’t stop desperate fans of extreme sports.84What to do if the coast was established dead calm or just no high waves? One alternative to surfing wakesurfing has become. It involves riding a Board that is towed by a boat, which is specially loaded with one side of the ballast. Due to this, the boat leaves during the movement of large waves and the first athlete is towed on a short rope behind a boat, and then throws him over and slides on the wave. There are special pools for surfing, where the waves are created artificially with the help of technical means. There all the wave parameters are strictly controlled by modern technology, but most surfers refers to such pools very skeptical.
92In the language of the Hawaiians, surfing is denoted by the word he enalu. Until 1992 the word surfing meant only riding the waves on a special Board, in the era of the Internet this word often refer and browsing pages on the world wide web.
surf-boyThe musicians are also not spared of this fascinating sport. Surf rock is a whole new trend of music for surfers. There are surfers and their jargon. For example a leading athlete’s foot is called «goofy» Saturday – «a regular». Hodad is a sort of «tea», the person who spends a lot of time on the beach, constantly carries around a Board, but not surfing. And another interesting fact: only 8% of the time athletes spend on surfing, the rest of the time it takes to wait for the right wave.

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